The Pro-Ject Pergola - Questions, Answers, Advice & Chat

[BoilerRhapsody]

It looks like the screws were supposed to be longer, by about the length of the sleeves. You could pry the hinge apart by a millimeter or two to reduce the friction and then install the hinges with longer screws.

So yeah, they are plastic so they can't exactly be pried open, but you gave me the idea to wedge them open anyway, I just happened to have some wire sitting around that fits perfectly.



Now when I put them back in the plinth, I can do up the screws tight enough to account for the only tiny amount sticking out past the sleeve, and the wire stops them clamping down too much. Might not be a long term solution as the plastic part is now flexing more than it should, it might eventually crack, but thats a problem for future me.

 

[Mather]

Okay so I guess add me to the list?

Cartridge: Ortofon 2M Black
Table: Pro-Ject 2Xperience SB (Pallisander)
Phono: Rega Aria
AVR: Arcam 550
Speakers: Revel F35/B10 Sub
Interconnects: BIS Vivat RCA
Speaker Cable: BIS Vivat
AC Cable: BIS Maestro/AC20

 

[Mather]

Not sure if all Pro-Ject tables use the same ones, but has anyone else had major issues with the shitty hinge design for the dust cover of their Debut Carbon?

View attachment 1771View attachment 1772

Its a very (too) simple design, the same screws that hold the hinge into the plinth, also clamp down on the pivoting arm. When you use the hinge, that clamping tension gradually pulls the screws out of the plinth (they are only holding in by that tiny bit of thread sticking out past the dowel/sleeve anyway), if you tighten them again, the hinge is clamped down even more, making it stiffer to use and then the problem worse. Eventually it has all become too wonky, and I can't really use the hinges at all now, the pivot arms move around in the hinge a bit and no longer line up well with the cover.

I had a quick Google and have found mention of this, but it doesn't seem to be that big of an issue. Anyone here had to deal with it? I was thinking maybe some lubrication around the arm, as even when I have the hinge taken out of the table (so no clamping on the arm at all) it still feels really tight.

They are ABSOLUTE hot garbage and I hate them. That being said get WD40 and Q-tip. Go AWAY FROM YOUR TABLE and spray a very small amount on the QTip then rub that on the metal prongs of the hinges where they touch the plastic portion. You don't need much at all. Work the hinge back and forth a bit and the friction will stop. You may need to be careful as the dust cover will now more easily come down but once it's up it should stay up and no more squeaking when you move it.

 

[Aelias]

Hey everybody, here's my current setup:

Cartridge: Ortofon 2M Bronze
Table: Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB
Phono: Lehmann Black Cube Statement
Amp: Denon Receiver
Speakers: Fluance AVFR

I've been planning to upgrade my amp to a Marantz PM5005 or 6006 but real life expenses keep getting in the way, overall I'm still pretty happy with how it sounds.

 

[Melt Face Molly Drop]

Hit me @Joe Mac

Cartridge: Ortofon 2M Blue
Table: Pro-Ject Carbon Esprit SB
Pre: Sutherland Insight
AVR: Onkyo TX-NR 838
Speakers: Q Acoustics Concept 40
Interconnects: Zu Wylde/Mission RCA
Speaker Cable: Blue Jeans Cable Canare 4S11
AC Cables: Zu Mission-Power
Sub: Paradigm PDR-10

 

[Captainfog]

Nice system! I’ll put it up!

Thank you! Iove my isolation box. Oh I wanted one of those classic Sb superpacks too, soooo much! But I really like my table so I had a hifi furniture maker guy build me that box. It wasn’t cheap but €300 was better than over €1000 and it’s made my turntable so nice that I’m also in a good place with it and can’t see myself wanting to change either!

Is there anything in the box (other than the turtable!) or is it just a wooden box?

 

[Joe Mac]

Is there anything in the box (other than the turtable!) or is it just a wooden box?

It’s a wooden box with a sorbothane layer for vibration absorption and then a couple of pillars that the table’s feet sit on. The whole box is on a couple of those isolation feet too.

Although to be honest I live in a new apartment with concrete floors and no vibrations. I got it because the wooden box set off the table, it’s complete overkill for me from an anti-vibration standpoint!

 

[Captainfog]

I really should think about a new needle as it's definitely done enough hours, but I've just got the standard Ortofon OM5e cartridge that came with it (Essential II) maybe I should use this opportunity to replace that at the same time??

 

[Joe Mac]

I really should think about a new needle as it's definitely done enough hours, but I've just got the standard Ortofon OM5e cartridge that came with it (Essential II) maybe I should use this opportunity to replace that at the same time??

If you’re happy to stick with Ortofons the OM is a decent cartridge. The OM20, 30 and 40 are well regarded styli and will just clip on and off your cartridge.

 

[Captainfog]

If you’re happy to stick with Ortofons the OM is a decent cartridge. The OM20, 30 and 40 are well regarded styli and will just clip on and off your cartridge.

I've no preference, what do you think I should do??

 

[Joe Mac]

I've no preference, what do you think I should do??

Well I wouldn’t bother switching an Ortofon OM for the Ortofon 2M series, I’m guessing you have a debut 3 if you have the 5e? The Grado cartridges aren’t compatible with that table so that rules them out.

So if it was me I’d look at the OM20, 30 & 40 styli and pick out the one that suited my budget the best.

With it being Ortofon you will have plenty of choice as most U.K. dealers stock them so with a bit of internet hunting you should hopefully get a good price.

 

[Captainfog]

Well I wouldn’t bother switching an Ortofon OM for the Ortofon 2M series, I’m guessing you have a debut 3 if you have the 5e? The Grado cartridges aren’t compatible with that table so that rules them out.

So if it was me I’d look at the OM20, 30 & 40 styli and pick out the one that suited my budget the best.

With it being Ortofon you will have plenty of choice as most U.K. dealers stock them so with a bit of internet hunting you should hopefully get a good price.

It's just an Essential II

 

[Joe Mac]

It's just an Essential II

That ones not on the Grado hum database at all so I wouldn’t fancy being the guinea pig if I was in your shoes. So I’d still say look at those 3 Ortofon styli and pick the one that suits you best.

 

[Captainfog]

That ones not on the Grado hum database at all so I wouldn’t fancy being the guinea pig if I was in your shoes. So I’d still say look at those 3 Ortofon styli and pick the one that suits you best.

Is there anything to consider? Like different ones pick up more surface noise etc?

 

[Captainfog]

Also what's the reason you wouldn't switch to something from the 2m series?

 

[Joe Mac]

Also what's the reason you wouldn't switch to something from the 2m series?

Once you get past the OM5e and OM10 the 2M series isn’t appreciably better than the OM series (in fact a lot of people prefer the higher 3 OM’s to the 2M’s) and so it’s not worth the hassle of changing he whole cartridge when you can just do a simple stylus swap to the 20, 30 or 40.

 

[HiFi Guy]

That ones not on the Grado hum database at all so I wouldn’t fancy being the guinea pig if I was in your shoes. So I’d still say look at those 3 Ortofon styli and pick the one that suits you best.

The Essential 2 won't hum with a Grado. I just ran the numbers through a resonance calculator and get between 9.1 Hz and 9.6 Hz. 10 Hz would be ideal. The reason for the spread is because the exact weight of the mounting hardware is unknown.

I also ran the numbers on the OM series and it is a slightly better match numbers wise. Of course, the Ortofon sounds nothing like a Grado.

In any event, either are a good choice for the Essential 2.

 

[HiFi Guy]

Also what's the reason you wouldn't switch to something from the 2m series?

The 2m series is a higher mass cartridge. This will drop your resonance frequency compared to the OM series to around 8.1 Hz.

10 Hz is ideal. Below 8 Hz and you may experience tracking issues. Above 12 Hz and you may have less than ideal bass response.

 

[HiFi Guy]

Once you get past the OM5e and OM10 the 2M series isn’t appreciably better than the OM series (in fact a lot of people prefer the higher 3 OM’s to the 2M’s) and so it’s not worth the hassle of changing he whole cartridge when you can just do a simple stylus swap to the 20, 30 or 40.

This.

For reference:

OM5/10 stylus- equivalent to 2m Red

OM20 stylus- equivalent to 2m Blue

OM30 stylus- equivalent to 2m Bronze

OM40 stylus- equivalent to or exceeds 2m Black

 

[Captainfog]

So you're saying I don't need a new cartridge and I can just replace the current stylus with any of the OM stylus options?

Is that the best cost effective option then?