MoFi UltraDeck / StudioDeck Owners and those interested

I've had a Studiodeck for over 20 months now, and to echo @AnthonyI , there's no motor hum, the belt stays in place, and I start the platter with my thumb as I hit the power button. So I would contact MoFi, they will make it right for you. A brand new unit with that many issues makes me think you should ask for a replacement with the VTA properly set.

The motors appear to be the same on both models.
THIS. none of the first two issues with my studio deck.
 
Thanks for the input. People are recommending reaching out to MoFi directly, I wonder if they'll point me to the retailer (TurnTableLabs)? Regardless, on everyone's advice, I've contacted MoFi.
MoFi was extremely helpful when I contacted them directly. Your table’s under warranty, they should certainly make things right.
 
I reached out to their cs@mofi email address but haven't heard back. Any other recommended method?
 
Hi, has anyone else had the headshell o-ring give out? If so, what'd you replace it with? Can I just go to Home Depot and pick one up that fits, or is there something special about it? I was going to order it with a new belt but Music Direct said a replacement o-ring is $15! I usually like to stick with original parts, but seems kind of pricey for that it is.... What does the o-ring even do?

mofi headsheel oring.png
 
Hi, has anyone else had the headshell o-ring give out? If so, what'd you replace it with? Can I just go to Home Depot and pick one up that fits, or is there something special about it? I was going to order it with a new belt but Music Direct said a replacement o-ring is $15! I usually like to stick with original parts, but seems kind of pricey for that it is.... What does the o-ring even do?

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I've seen this pop up on occasion, still can't figure out how it happens, I've never had a problem, have had my deck since launch and can't even imagine how this would degrade over time based on how it's used, but non the less. I would just spend the $15 because IF something else goes wrong, regardless of the reality or not, that's going to be brought up. Ya, an O ring costs nothing, but believe me, just get the OEM part and move on. If it were hundreds of dollars, I'm with you, for $15 its hardly worth the research and sidestep.

As always, just my opinion, do what you feel is best :)
 
I've seen this pop up on occasion, still can't figure out how it happens, I've never had a problem, have had my deck since launch and can't even imagine how this would degrade over time based on how it's used, but non the less. I would just spend the $15 because IF something else goes wrong, regardless of the reality or not, that's going to be brought up. Ya, an O ring costs nothing, but believe me, just get the OEM part and move on. If it were hundreds of dollars, I'm with you, for $15 its hardly worth the research and sidestep.

As always, just my opinion, do what you feel is best :)
Cool, thanks @AnthonyI . Yeah, I usually just go with OEM to save headaches (unless there's something obviously better)...I think I was just initially surprised at how much it was. ;)

Mine got brittle and there's actually another part that's starting to break as well. The section that broke isn't flexible at all...curious what caused it. Kind of dreading putting it on...I think I need to take off the headshell and I really hope I don't mess anything up.

Anyways, will be placing the order now. FYI for anyone in the future, you need to contact Music Direct to purchase it. I'm ordering some other stuff from them, so they'll add it separately to my order.

If I'm not mistaken it's part of the tone arms absorption physics, principal, how ever you want to define it :)
Ah, got it, that makes sense.
 
I think I need to take off the headshell and I really hope I don't mess anything up.
There's a set screw on the bottom side of the tonearm where the O ring ring would go, to adjust the azmuth, I think just loosening that should let you slide the head shell off without issue. Make sure to remove the cartridge wires before hand.
 
Decided to keep my table, the motor hum is completely livable since I do not hear it unless my head is near the table. MoFi directed me to make a few minor adjustments and the rubber band is now riding in its groove.

I may also want to tweak the tone arm as it rides pretty low, but kind of apprehensive to make tweaks. The only change I really need to make is on the lifter. When I reach the end of a record side and life the cue lever, it does not raise high enough to lift the tone arm off the record. Any thoughts on what would need to be adjusted to fix this?
 
Decided to keep my table, the motor hum is completely livable since I do not hear it unless my head is near the table. MoFi directed me to make a few minor adjustments and the rubber band is now riding in its groove.

I may also want to tweak the tone arm as it rides pretty low, but kind of apprehensive to make tweaks. The only change I really need to make is on the lifter. When I reach the end of a record side and life the cue lever, it does not raise high enough to lift the tone arm off the record. Any thoughts on what would need to be adjusted to fix this?
The tonearm adjustment might actually help you there - if your arm is riding too low then the cue lever obviously isn't going to give you as much height as you'd like.

Tonearm height is very easy to adjust, I just recommend putting a stylus guard on your cart and holding the base of the tonearm firmly when loosening the screw, as the tonearm will quickly drop to its lowest level if unsupported. You want the arm perfectly level when the cart is in a groove.
 
You shouldn’t need to, assuming it’s working properly. How much does it raise the support?
It actually raises the level just fine, but when the arm goes all the way to the spindle, it is physically past the end of the arm, so raising it does nothing.
 
That is probably true. I assume I can loosen the screw on the bottom and rotate?
I believe that is the case. In fact, I feel like someone else here had a similar issue with a misaligned arm.

Looks like it was @HayesWeighsIn. Based on his post, yes, loosening the VTA screw should also allow you to rotate the whole fixture.
 
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