Equipment Recommendations - The Home For New System and Upgrade Advice

Ghost said:
www.whathifi.com

Technics has a new entry-level turntable, the SL-100C

A follow-up to the Award-winning SL-1500C
www.whathifi.com www.whathifi.com

Might have to sell the Fluance and make the jump to this one, seems like a good entry point to the Technics line. Any thoughts on how this would compare to the Fluance RT85?
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My initial thought is you gotta be kidding. Technics can’t keep the G or GR in stock anywhere and they are adding another model? SMH.

It looks like the 1500C adds adjustable VTA (arm height) that the 100C appears to omit. I don’t see the 100C as much more than a side step from the Fluance.

Also, Technics is moving production from Japan to Malaysia. It likely won’t make a difference, but I’m not sure I’d jump on a new model from a new factory.
 
HiFi Guy said:
My initial thought is you gotta be kidding. Technics can’t keep the G or GR in stock anywhere and they are adding another model? SMH.

It looks like the 1500C adds adjustable VTA (arm height) that the 100C appears to omit. I don’t see the 100C as much more than a side step from the Fluance.

Also, Technics is moving production from Japan to Malaysia. It likely won’t make a difference, but I’m not sure I’d jump on a new model from a new factory.
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Appreciate the transparency. Perhaps it will be better to save up for a higher end Technics or Ultradeck, leaning towards a Technics for my "endgame" rig after I upgrade my speakers!
 
Sorry to bring it up again, but I’m wondering if anyone here can answer the question technically.

REL’s Video for connecting the two subs to monoblocks simply has you connect the left right cables on the Sub cable together and use that sub for only the one block.

Other than the auxiliary benefits of having a second sub, or them simply wanting to sell me two, what would be the need?

1. The load is virtually invisible to amp and speaker.

2. once you’ve joined the cables to connect one sub to each channel why not just connect one sub to one channel?

again, my question is specifically for mono block scenario. So unless there are gaps in the sound I don’t see the necessity.
 
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So I did a search and I've seen some mentions in previous posts about cork mats but not a ton of hits, that said sorry if I'm going over already discussed ground.
I'm curious thoughts of those who use em. Pure Cork vs. Cork/Rubber composite? Are all created somewhat equal or are there ones to avoid? Is cork 'dust' an issue to worry about? Recessed styles make a real difference? I'd be putting it on a Technics SL-D2 fwiw.
 
ducktree said:
So I did a search and I've seen some mentions in previous posts about cork mats but not a ton of hits, that said sorry if I'm going over already discussed ground.
I'm curious thoughts of those who use em. Pure Cork vs. Cork/Rubber composite? Are all created somewhat equal or are there ones to avoid? Is cork 'dust' an issue to worry about? Recessed styles make a real difference? I'd be putting it on a Technics SL-D2 fwiw.
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I had a GEM Dandy cork/rubber composite on a previous turntable and liked it a lot. No problem with dust at all. It’s got the recessed label area so the the record mates to the platter better.
 
ducktree said:
So I did a search and I've seen some mentions in previous posts about cork mats but not a ton of hits, that said sorry if I'm going over already discussed ground.
I'm curious thoughts of those who use em. Pure Cork vs. Cork/Rubber composite? Are all created somewhat equal or are there ones to avoid? Is cork 'dust' an issue to worry about? Recessed styles make a real difference? I'd be putting it on a Technics SL-D2 fwiw.
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I have a cork mat and love it compared to previous felt mats I’ve had. Things lay flatter and it grips nice. My table is a Technics SL-D205 (which is basically the same thing only with an extra light).
 
Thackeraye said:
The other alternative is to get an external USB drive for your laptop. This is what I do. Rip the CD's to FLAC/whatever then you can play them off the laptop.

If it has to be a CD player then Joe's choices seem great. I'd maybe add Marantz into the mix as well, not on experience but reputation/seen reviews.
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If anyone is looking for a physical cd player the new Rotel CD11 seems to getting a lot of good comments. $599 usd list
 
Basic question for you folks. I like the sound of my system until I crank it. Is that because of the limitations of the PHO-8 possibly?
 
VMPKJ said:
Sorry to bring it up again, but I’m wondering if anyone here can answer the question technically.

REL’s Video for connecting the two subs to monoblocks simply has you connect the left right cables on the Sub cable together and use that sub for only the one block.

Other than the auxiliary benefits of having a second sub, or them simply wanting to sell me two, what would be the need?

1. The load is virtually invisible to amp and speaker.

2. once you’ve joined the cables to connect one sub to each channel why not just connect one sub to one channel?

again, my question is specifically for mono block scenario. So unless there are gaps in the sound I don’t see the necessity.
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They probably say this out of fear of electrical shorts and/or ground loops.

Does you sup only have speaker in, or does it also have RCA line level inputs? Maybe you can put Y cables between your preamp and monoblocks and put the sub on that?
 
Englishbob said:
Basic question for you folks. I like the sound of my system until I crank it. Is that because of the limitations of the PHO-8 possibly?
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Have you ever played with the soft clipping function on your amp? Was looking at the specs and noticed the following feature. I dont know if the PHO is the culprit, but this might mitigate the distortion you might be hearing.

Features​

Soft Clipping: NAD's Soft Clipping circuit gently limits the output of the C 326BEE to minimize audible distortion when the amplifier is over-driven. While Soft Clipping can be left on at all times to reduce the likelihood of audible distortion from excessive volume settings, you can also turn the circuit off for critical listening if you prefer.
 
apholden said:
They probably say this out of fear of electrical shorts and/or ground loops.

Does you sup only have speaker in, or does it also have RCA line level inputs? Maybe you can put Y cables between your preamp and monoblocks and put the sub on that?
Click to expand...
It's more in prep for monoblocks ATM. The preamp is out of outputs and the blocks have only speaker posts. After some reading It seems one can post the two leads to each amp if they are within reach of one another, but then the ground to only one AS LONG AS THE AMP IS NOT FULLY BALANCED. This could create a loop in some cases, and I'm sure what they are worried about is shorts in some cases.

It appears that the issue is that you do indeed need low freq. info. from both channels to complete the sound picture one way or the other.
 
Splunders said:
Have you ever played with the soft clipping function on your amp? Was looking at the specs and noticed the following feature. I dont know if the PHO is the culprit, but this might mitigate the distortion you might be hearing.

Features​

Soft Clipping: NAD's Soft Clipping circuit gently limits the output of the C 326BEE to minimize audible distortion when the amplifier is over-driven. While Soft Clipping can be left on at all times to reduce the likelihood of audible distortion from excessive volume settings, you can also turn the circuit off for critical listening if you prefer.
Click to expand...
Hmm, I'll look at this tonight. I dont recall if this is on or off. Thanks!
 
HiFi Guy said:
My initial thought is you gotta be kidding. Technics can’t keep the G or GR in stock anywhere and they are adding another model? SMH.

It looks like the 1500C adds adjustable VTA (arm height) that the 100C appears to omit. I don’t see the 100C as much more than a side step from the Fluance.

Also, Technics is moving production from Japan to Malaysia. It likely won’t make a difference, but I’m not sure I’d jump on a new model from a new factory.
Click to expand...

Where did you see about VTA? So far all I’ve found on it is press releases which describe the tables as identical save for the removal of the built phono stage and the change from 2M red to AT-VM95C. Both of which would make it more attractive than the 1500C and for €100 less?

I’d imagine that’s a worldwide supply chain issue with COVID. There still seems to be stocks of all their models in the usual haunts over here.
 
HiFi Guy said:
My initial thought is you gotta be kidding. Technics can’t keep the G or GR in stock anywhere and they are adding another model? SMH.

It looks like the 1500C adds adjustable VTA (arm height) that the 100C appears to omit. I don’t see the 100C as much more than a side step from the Fluance.

Also, Technics is moving production from Japan to Malaysia. It likely won’t make a difference, but I’m not sure I’d jump on a new model from a new factory.
Click to expand...
It's funny how something so important would be left out of releases, blurbs and or listed as a feature, non the less, it appears the 100C has VTA, it's a little blurry, but there is a lock and it looks to read "Height Adjustment" on the rim. at least in the photos used for marketing at this point.
Capture.PNG
 
Hi all,

So for a variety of reasons, I'm thinking of upgrading my U-Turn Orbit that I've had since May 2017.

So at this point, I'm working with:
  • U-Turn Orbit Plus w/ built-in preamp
  • Onkyo A-9010 Integrated Amplifier
  • KEF Q150 Bookshelf Pair
The Onkyo A-9010 technically has a phono preamp, but I assume that's not ideal. So I'm looking at getting a new turntable in the $400-$600 price range and a preamp.

So that basically leads me to either the Fluance RT85 or the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO (unless there's others in this price range I should be considering like a Rega perhaps?). Both would require separate phono preamps so I'd need some recommendations there as well.

Anyone with recommendations?
 
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