The VPI Turntable Thread

It seems I may have to send my motor housing for my Traveler back to VPI for repair soon.

It's had issues where it sometimes starts in reverse. When this started to happen, the VPI forums mentions a capacitor going bad...which makes sense. The 50/50 chance of it happening wasn't that big of a deal, as once it started up the right way, it was fine.

Recently it seems along with that issue, the switch itself is going bad. Which really sucks, as this is my 2nd switch, as the first went bad about 5 years ago.

Now sometimes while a record is playing the switch makes contact and stops the player...then tries to restart - this then triggers the bad cap and can potentially play a record backwards from where they stylus is at that point.

For now I may just open it up and de-ox the switch...maybe a good cleaning will do it.

I don't look forward to having to send this back to VPI to fix the bad cap, tho. It seems that whenever I have needed a part fixed, the first switch - or a switch on the VPI 16.5 they have been unusually more expensive than you would think they should be for a small part. I would expect a new cap would be the same.
 
It seems I may have to send my motor housing for my Traveler back to VPI for repair soon.

It's had issues where it sometimes starts in reverse. When this started to happen, the VPI forums mentions a capacitor going bad...which makes sense. The 50/50 chance of it happening wasn't that big of a deal, as once it started up the right way, it was fine.

Recently it seems along with that issue, the switch itself is going bad. Which really sucks, as this is my 2nd switch, as the first went bad about 5 years ago.

Now sometimes while a record is playing the switch makes contact and stops the player...then tries to restart - this then triggers the bad cap and can potentially play a record backwards from where they stylus is at that point.

For now I may just open it up and de-ox the switch...maybe a good cleaning will do it.

I don't look forward to having to send this back to VPI to fix the bad cap, tho. It seems that whenever I have needed a part fixed, the first switch - or a switch on the VPI 16.5 they have been unusually more expensive than you would think they should be for a small part. I would expect a new cap would be the same.
Likely the start up cap. Is this something you can do? It should be easy if you can solder.
 
I would contact there customer service and ask if they could mail you the parts for both under warranty. (They usually just ask for a copy of a receipt). Sounds like a couple simple solder jobs. But if it gets more complicated that that then you can always send your table in. Unfortunately most repair cost is for labor which in general can be as low as 35 a hour locally if your lucky to well more than that in most cases now for factory service. Also be sure to put a dot of oil on the motor, VPI can tell you exactly where for your model and clean/blow out the housing well.

You could always use an external power strip to turn the table on/off to save wear and tear on the table's switch in the future.

If all else fails let me know and I can get you in touch with Mat or Harry.
 
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I would contact there customer service and ask if they could mail you the parts for both under warranty. (They usually just ask for a copy of a receipt). Sounds like a couple simple solder jobs. But if it gets more complicated that that then you can always send your table in. Unfortunately most repair cost is for labor which in general can be as low as 35 a hour locally if your lucky to well more than that in most cases now for factory service. Also be sure to put a dot of oil on the motor, VPI can tell you exactly where for your model and clean/blow out the housing well.

You could always use an external power strip to turn the table on/off to save wear and tear on the table's switch in the future.

If all else fails let me know and I can get you in touch with Mat or Harry.

Not sure there is a warranty or if I ever got a receipt - I bought it through a broker of sorts on the Hoffman forums.

I do think I need to take it out of the rotation for a while and use my back up Technics. I'll get it on the work bench and see what I can do with it.

I cleaned up the outside the other day, adding some oil to the motor (taking off the spindle and adding a drop to the motor) and cleaned up some old burned smelling oil from the platter bearing well. Added a bit of lightning grease to that.
 
I took the motor housing off and couldn't really see anything going on wrong in there. I don't have a multimeter to test anything.

I did take the switch out and squirted some deox-it in there where I could...just in case that was an issue.

I got it hooked back up playing a record...not sure if I'm hearing some micro-slow downs in the music...or if it's the music I'm listening to. I'll play something I'm really use to to make sure.

If that's the case, I'll probably just need to replace the whole motor housing....PCB board, motor and all.


All this wasn't too hard to do and I was going to have to dig around with wires behind everything anyway, as I got a new lamp for my TT.

The one I had been using for years was a cheap incandescent desk lamp. It didn't want to work well with LED bulbs, so I went with an LED lamp.

I have seen this one in a few record/music related youtube videos, so I picked it up.

Wish it came in black, though.

 
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I think I'm gonna have to take this out of commission. The 50/50 reverse start was annoying, but really didn't have any effect on listening.

Now it wants to randomly stop - or stop and start --- again, maybe in reverse.

I'll shoot an email over to VPI and see what can be done. I think a whole new motor housing will be needed.
 
here's a video of me every time I try to start up a record...there is sound




All that clicking is mostly coming from the motor housing....other than the click of the button.
 
here's a video of me every time I try to start up a record...there is sound




All that clicking is mostly coming from the motor housing....other than the click of the button.

The motor is likely shot. The good news is that VPIs are pretty simple and you may be able to fix it yourself.
 
The motor is likely shot. The good news is that VPIs are pretty simple and you may be able to fix it yourself.

Almost a month after sending out my email they responded that the technician said both my issues can be caused by a faulty switch.

Since I already bought a switch 3 years ago, they are shipping it out for free.

Hopefully this is what fixes it.
 
Almost a month after sending out my email they responded that the technician said both my issues can be caused by a faulty switch.

Since I already bought a switch 3 years ago, they are shipping it out for free.

Hopefully this is what fixes it.
A month to respond? Not good.
 
A month to respond? Not good.

Yeah...I was busy with things anyway. I know they got behind with Covid, and I don't know if they are going back into restrictions so I was going to give then till August and then write back. But I just got an email today.

I did have to show proof I bought the original replacement, which luckily my paypal went back that far.

I sent them the $$ for that switch exactly 3 years ago today - 7/23/18
 
Almost a month after sending out my email they responded that the technician said both my issues can be caused by a faulty switch.

Since I already bought a switch 3 years ago, they are shipping it out for free.

Hopefully this is what fixes it.
Should not of been a month although as others say things have slowed down with the pandemic and some changes there. Usually a few days for parts or a question when I have contacted them recently. If you need to get in touch with Harry about anything let me know.

Good luck with the new switch. I dont like how close the pulley is to the hole tbh unless it's the angle of the photo or just how it is.
 
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The new switch arrived yesterday. Testing it seems to be back to where I've been the last year or so. Which is randomly starting in reverse. A few tries gets it to play correctly.

But I think this is what eventually made the switch fail. I emailed them back to see what else can be causing this issue. Other tt forums mention a run/stop capacitor going bad, but I'm not sure this PCB has something like that or not.
 
The new switch arrived yesterday. Testing it seems to be back to where I've been the last year or so. Which is randomly starting in reverse. A few tries gets it to play correctly.

But I think this is what eventually made the switch fail. I emailed them back to see what else can be causing this issue. Other tt forums mention a run/stop capacitor going bad, but I'm not sure this PCB has something like that or not.
That sucks. If you don’t get a quick response, give them a call.
 
I got a new lamp for my TT.

The one I had been using for years was a cheap incandescent desk lamp. It didn't want to work well with LED bulbs, so I went with an LED lamp.

I have seen this one in a few record/music related youtube videos, so I picked it up.

Wish it came in black, though.
Ask and ye shall receive:
Now I have to decide whether I want to replace my white version...
 
Ask and ye shall receive:
Now I have to decide whether I want to replace my white version...

I'd love to have a black, but I'll wait until this one craps out or my wife ends up wanting it in another room or something.
 
I'd love to have a black, but I'll wait until this one craps out or my wife ends up wanting it in another room or something.
Yeah, I was thinking about where else we could use the white lamp too. Plus they raised the price $10
 
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