Cables - one of the most taboo subjects in audio

I use Straight wire cables on my speakers and my amp, and ARC PH 5 phono stage. The most important part of the system power cords, “Shunyata.”
 
I've finally gotten around to replacing all of my legacy Straightwire Symphony II RCA interconnect cables. The primary reason is plasticizer degradation in the outer jackets; they had started to turn "sticky". All the cables were 15 years or more old.

This can be a problem as cables with PVC jackets age- the plasticizers which keep them flexible can leech out over time. Remember that PVC is the same base material that rigid pipes and vinyl records are made of; plasticizers are a necessity in some applications like cable jackets.

I've replaced the Straightwire cables with LC-1 or Belden 1505F cables which seem to have more durable chemistry for their outer jackets. Time will tell.
 
I've finally gotten around to replacing all of my legacy Straightwire Symphony II RCA interconnect cables. The primary reason is plasticizer degradation in the outer jackets; they had started to turn "sticky". All the cables were 15 years or more old.

This can be a problem as cables with PVC jackets age- the plasticizers which keep them flexible can leech out over time. Remember that PVC is the same base material that rigid pipes and vinyl records are made of; plasticizers are a necessity in some applications like cable jackets.

I've replaced the Straightwire cables with LC-1 or Belden 1505F cables which seem to have more durable chemistry for their outer jackets. Time will tell.
I have not used LC-1s for 15 years, but some in my system are 7-8 years old now. They still look and perform as new.
 
as @Haimez40 said you can use the metal jumper for now with normal cables, then try short cable jumpers (between the speaker connections, or you could get something like Canare 4S11 made up by Blue Jeans cables. You can get one end terminated for bi wire (speakers) and the other end shotgun terminated to two connectors (special request when ordering) for to your amp. Lots of Klipsch users go that route. Should be around $100 for 8-10 ft pair.


This convo began in the equipment recommendations thread.
I recently bought the Whaferdale Denton 80's and was curious about the bi-wiring.
I ordered the Blue Jeans Canare 4S11 (suggested by @JohnnyCashFan) and got them installed today.
I think I can hear a difference over my previous generic wires.
I'm listening to Spoon's latest album and I can't recall the bass sounding this good.
I wonder if it's real or if some placebo effect (the Canare do look impressive) 🤣🤣🤣
 
This convo began in the equipment recommendations thread.
I recently bought the Whaferdale Denton 80's and was curious about the bi-wiring.
I ordered the Blue Jeans Canare 4S11 (suggested by @JohnnyCashFan) and got them installed today.
I think I can hear a difference over my previous generic wires.
I'm listening to Spoon's latest album and I can't recall the bass sounding this good.
I wonder if it's real or if some placebo effect (the Canare do look impressive) 🤣🤣🤣

Hahaha! I had that cable bi wiring my old tannoys. I’m guessing that it’s a bit of placebo, a bit of it just being a better cable than what you were running before and a last bit of it being the bi wiring itself!

I do love the locking banana plugs that BJ use on their speaker cables.
 
I do love the locking banana plugs that BJ use on their speaker cables.

They had be sweating for a bit until I realized how they worked.
I was thinking: oh boy, I bought cables that don't fit, my wife is going to kill me!
 
They had be sweating for a bit until I realized how they worked.
I was thinking: oh boy, I bought cables that don't fit, my wife is going to kill me!

Gotta say when I first got them I did spend a bit to long putting them against the port, going “these don’t fit” and repeat before I googled how they work 😂
 
They had be sweating for a bit until I realized how they worked.
I was thinking: oh boy, I bought cables that don't fit, my wife is going to kill me!
wait until you tell her your going to run constant test tone sweeps through them to break-in for next 200 hours !:ROFLMAO:

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your hearing a well insulated/made cable with good connectors keeping outside noise away. Things will likely smooth out in a 100 hours or so.
 
Alright fellow snake oil hunters, I’m getting ready to start saving for my next upgrade, and I think I’m starting from the wall this time… planning to replace all the power cables.

In this process I’ll also be moving to the linear power supply for my Sutherland 20/20, but let’s focus on cables first.

Here are my main questions:
Should I go uniform across the system, or should some components get “better” power cables.

I’ll note that these are all running through a Wireworld Spaceport, and devices requiring plus include: power supply, amp, dac/streamer, cd transport, phono and turntable.

My initial thought is that if anything can survive from a lesser cable, it’s probably the TT. Any ideas/opinions?
 
Alright fellow snake oil hunters, I’m getting ready to start saving for my next upgrade, and I think I’m starting from the wall this time… planning to replace all the power cables.

In this process I’ll also be moving to the linear power supply for my Sutherland 20/20, but let’s focus on cables first.

Here are my main questions:
Should I go uniform across the system, or should some components get “better” power cables.

I’ll note that these are all running through a Wireworld Spaceport, and devices requiring plus include: power supply, amp, dac/streamer, cd transport, phono and turntable.

My initial thought is that if anything can survive from a lesser cable, it’s probably the TT. Any ideas/opinions?
TV- I just use whatever comes in the box. If it powers up, I’m good.

My system has uniform cables on everything else except the turntable- I needed a 2 meter cable for my turntable and one I already had came with built in ferrite filters which I figured couldn’t hurt. That said, I’m not sure if go nuts on a power cord for a turntable.
 
TV- I just use whatever comes in the box. If it powers up, I’m good.

My system has uniform cables on everything else except the turntable- I needed a 2 meter cable for my turntable and one I already had came with built in ferrite filters which I figured couldn’t hurt. That said, I’m not sure if go nuts on a power cord for a turntable.
Glad I’m thinking on the same wavelength here.
Anything in particular that’s impressed you lately?
 
Glad I’m thinking on the same wavelength here.
Anything in particular that’s impressed you lately?
I finally upgraded my speaker cables to AudioQuest Gibraltar single biwire. Not inexpensive but reasonable at half off.

My guy at MD said the Fortes sound way better bi wired. He wasn’t wrong.

Other than that, I’ve had no changes in my system.
 
Alright fellow snake oil hunters, I’m getting ready to start saving for my next upgrade, and I think I’m starting from the wall this time… planning to replace all the power cables.

In this process I’ll also be moving to the linear power supply for my Sutherland 20/20, but let’s focus on cables first.

Here are my main questions:
Should I go uniform across the system, or should some components get “better” power cables.

I’ll note that these are all running through a Wireworld Spaceport, and devices requiring plus include: power supply, amp, dac/streamer, cd transport, phono and turntable.

My initial thought is that if anything can survive from a lesser cable, it’s probably the TT. Any ideas/opinions?
I'm by no means an authority on this by ANY stretch but yeah I ignored the TT AC cable but replaced the Amp, Sub, and stage with the same house brand, but all 3 got slightly different versions of the AC cable due that were tailored to their individual needs. (Look don't ask me that's what they said so I just threw my wallet at them and walked away happy)
 
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