Technical Difficulties Thread

So, I added the KAB and it definitely does have an effect...makes non-problem records sound better and punchier, and dampens but doesn't remove the thumping on the record from the video I posted originally. Tried flattening another record today and it was even worse, even with the damper in place (though I tried removing the damper paddle to see how bad it was without and it was quite a bit worse). Frustrating issue that is making me doubt whether or not I should use the Vinyl Flat anymore.

One question that I do have related to the damper. The fluid level...I put the entire syringe of fluid in the damper, and to my eyes, it looks lower than half full...

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Not sure if it really makes a difference, but looking at the picture in the previous post, the trough looks fuller there (could just be an optical illusion with the different angle though).

What kind of isolation are you using under your table ?
 
What kind of isolation are you using under your table ?
I don't have any isolation under the table currently. The problem seems to be with the tonearm getting jarred by certain records (not the vast majority of them thankfully). Is that a thing that isolation under the table would help?🤔
 
I don't have any isolation under the table currently. The problem seems to be with the tonearm getting jarred by certain records (not the vast majority of them thankfully). Is that a thing that isolation under the table would help?🤔
Isolation will not stop the issue you are having. But if you can feel at vibration on the plinth, some anti vibration measures can help with sound quality overall.
 
@siremobunny Something just dawned on me.

The PLX-1000 comes with a small weight that screws into rear of the arm behind the counterweight.

Are you using this? If not, you should. This will require resetting your tracking force once you’ve added the weight. Once you do, you’ll notice that the counterweight will be more forward of where it was. Having the counterweight closer to the pivot point is desirable and results in better tracking.
 
@siremobunny Something just dawned on me.

The PLX-1000 comes with a small weight that screws into rear of the arm behind the counterweight.

Are you using this? If not, you should. This will require resetting your tracking force once you’ve added the weight. Once you do, you’ll notice that the counterweight will be more forward of where it was. Having the counterweight closer to the pivot point is desirable and results in better tracking.
I do have that weight on there. I found that I needed it on there because the Jelco headshell was heavier (or maybe lighter? I can't remember for sure) than the stock Pioneer headshell.
 
Hi all - So I have an SL-D2 and got an at-vm95ml a couple weeks ago. Over the past week I've been thinking the cantilever looks a little off center, but then maybe it's just the angle I look at it. Haven't head anything bad when playing, loving the urgrade. But now not it definitely seems like, see pics, that it is slightly leaning towards the outer grooves side. FYI - I got one preloaded to the headshell, and very slightly adjusted it based on eyeballing with the technics overhang gauge.

I feel pretty good about my tracking force setup, running at 2grams or just under, using a manual shure gauge, and there hasn't been any damage that could have happened I'm aware of. What's worrying, is I had replaced a 95e that had the same lean, but even stronger, that I thought had been damaged during recent move. So now it seems something in my setup is causing this. :(

Could a faulty anti-skate on the turntable cause this? I did the blank vinyl check some on the internet at large have mentioned, and even with the anti skate cranked up to 3, it will still pull to the center. It is less than if no anti-skate is set, but not by a ton. Usually I have it set around 2.

Should I crack this this open and check the spring? Would anti skate cause this lean that quickly? Is there something else that is possible? Again, I'm not hearing anything off, things sound generally very good. But it doesn't seem ideal.

Any thoughts? Help me not kill my records!
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what should the temperature get to? Mine gets to about 130-140 near the fold and cooler as you go out from the middle....just seems to take a while to get to that point. Almost seems like preheating the pouch, but not the plates might be the way to go.
Just a quick question, when you say "severe" warp, how bad are we talking? In my experience when the warp is past a certain point, even if the album appears flat, it leaves behind an imperfection of sorts, a "warble" if you will.

Not to debate VF methods and procedures, but in my opinion and experience pre-heating isn't going to shock the vinyl. The plates serve two purposes, pressure and evenly applying heat.........somewhat. If your going from room temp to a preheated pouch, between the rings, the vinyl will heat at a steady pace, it's not like your taking a blow torch to it.

That all being said, go with the method that works for you, but experiment on junk albums to fine tune the process. My constant has become 45 minutes pre-heating, 90 minutes in the pouch and cooling to room temperature before removing. I've had 0 issues or damage. But again, test your theories on junk albums.

Some warps are not coming out, even if it looks "better" it leaves behind a defect, which is why I'm asking.
 
I recently upgraded my cartridge to an AT-VM95ML and while it's for the most part been working just fine, I've recently found some records begin to skip constantly at the end of a side where they didn't before. I tried redoing my tracking force weight (currently right around 2 grams) and the anti-skate but that doesn't seem to have made a difference. I also double checked the cartridge alignment and it looks good. Any suggestions?

Edit: I eased up on the anti-skating and that seems to have improved things. One thing's for sure, it's been a tough balancing act with the anti-skate ever since I put this new cartridge in.
 
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I have a CD player question.

I have a Marantz CD6006 and lately i haven't been able to listen to a CD without it just randomly skipping forward to some point in the next track. Some times i can go back to the point before it skipped and issues the rest of the playback. Other times it skip again at some point or will skip back in the same song and after trying to play on a few times, if i press stop and then play again, it will read for about 30 sec before saying "Unsupporting". If it does that, it won't read any CD's. These are new CD's i have listened to plenty of times. They don't have any scratches or anything.

Could it be an issue with the CD player or maybe just a dirty lense? I have never used one of those CD cleaner thingies before.
 
I have a CD player question.

I have a Marantz CD6006 and lately i haven't been able to listen to a CD without it just randomly skipping forward to some point in the next track. Some times i can go back to the point before it skipped and issues the rest of the playback. Other times it skip again at some point or will skip back in the same song and after trying to play on a few times, if i press stop and then play again, it will read for about 30 sec before saying "Unsupporting". If it does that, it won't read any CD's. These are new CD's i have listened to plenty of times. They don't have any scratches or anything.

Could it be an issue with the CD player or maybe just a dirty lense? I have never used one of those CD cleaner thingies before.
I have the same one but haven’t had this problem. Can you see through the CDs if you hold them up to the light? Apparently that can make them hard to read and it will say “unsupported”
 
I have a CD player question.

I have a Marantz CD6006 and lately i haven't been able to listen to a CD without it just randomly skipping forward to some point in the next track. Some times i can go back to the point before it skipped and issues the rest of the playback. Other times it skip again at some point or will skip back in the same song and after trying to play on a few times, if i press stop and then play again, it will read for about 30 sec before saying "Unsupporting". If it does that, it won't read any CD's. These are new CD's i have listened to plenty of times. They don't have any scratches or anything.

Could it be an issue with the CD player or maybe just a dirty lense? I have never used one of those CD cleaner thingies before.

ive not had that CD player but when I’ve had that problem with other CD players it’s been either:

1. A badly scratched or very smudged CD;
2. Dirty Lens so the lens cleaning CD has sorted it; or
3. In one CD player the lens got knocked out of alignment but was sorted by a maintenance tech easily enough.
 
I have the same one but haven’t had this problem. Can you see through the CDs if you hold them up to the light? Apparently that can make them hard to read and it will say “unsupported”
I read about that when i did a google search on the issue but i can't see through them.
 
ive not had that CD player but when I’ve had that problem with other CD players it’s been either:

1. A badly scratched or very smudged CD;
2. Dirty Lens so the lens cleaning CD has sorted it; or
3. In one CD player the lens got knocked out of alignment but was sorted by a maintenance tech easily enough.
Definitely not number 1 lol

I'm gonna buy a lens cleaning CD then and see what happens. Hopefully that's just the issue and it won't need maintenance.
 
ive not had that CD player but when I’ve had that problem with other CD players it’s been either:

1. A badly scratched or very smudged CD;
2. Dirty Lens so the lens cleaning CD has sorted it; or
3. In one CD player the lens got knocked out of alignment but was sorted by a maintenance tech easily enough.
How long should the lens cleaning CD run? I just got one but there's no mention of time.
 
How long should the lens cleaning CD run? I just got one but there's no mention of time.

There’s usually instructions on them? If I remember correctly there’s a spoken word track with instructions, then it spins up making a noise, that’s it cleaning, and when the classical music starts playing the cleaning cycle is done.
 
There’s usually instructions on them? If I remember correctly there’s a spoken word track with instructions, then it spins up making a noise, that’s it cleaning, and when the classical music starts playing the cleaning cycle is done.
OK cool. Nah, the instructions just says 1-2 drops on the brushes and what to do if the fluids get in your mouth, eyes or hands. Except under danish where there's no mention of the drops. It's not a well put together instructions pamphlet haha
 
OK cool. Nah, the instructions just says 1-2 drops on the brushes and what to do if the fluids get in your mouth, eyes or hands. Except under danish where there's no mention of the drops. It's not a well put together instructions pamphlet haha

Haha fair enough. Drops. The ones I had didn’t have drops lol, youve gone fancy! The ones I used to get were just a cd with some brushes on it 😂
 
Haha fair enough. Drops. The ones I had didn’t have drops lol, youve gone fancy! The ones I used to get were just a cd with some brushes on it 😂
It's the only one i could find online. There's a little bottle with fluids and a CD with two small brushes on it. Cost me $10 and the fluids expires in July 2022 so i need to clean it a lot in the next year lol
 
It's the only one i could find online. There's a little bottle with fluids and a CD with two small brushes on it. Cost me $10 and the fluids expires in July 2022 so i need to clean it a lot in the next year lol

Ah right. I just used to buy them from the local record store for like £5 back in the day lol.
 
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