MoFi UltraDeck / StudioDeck Owners and those interested

Just a quick question regarding lubrication: How large or small blob is needed when lubricating the bearing on the Ultradeck? And where to apply that blob?
 
To those who are still trying to lubricate an inverted bearing with lithium grease, your next choice of a turntable with an oil bath bearing will eliminate this perplexity forever!

And yes, the smug direct drive owners will sit the on the sidelines and smirk!🤓

But more seriously, what are the features you’d want in your next turntable that you’ve learned from prior purchases? For me, it is the oil-bath bearing and a 10” tonearm which tingle the engineer in me. Adjustable VTA is another essential.
 
To those who are still trying to lubricate an inverted bearing with lithium grease, your next choice of a turntable with an oil bath bearing will eliminate this perplexity forever!

And yes, the smug direct drive owners will sit the on the sidelines and smirk!🤓

But more seriously, what are the features you’d want in your next turntable that you’ve learned from prior purchases? For me, it is the oil-bath bearing and a 10” tonearm which tingle the engineer in me. Adjustable VTA is another essential.
1.Oil-bath bearing
2. 45/33rpm switch
3. Better isolated motor

The funny thing, is that the new Pro Ject Debut Pro has some features id like to have. Like an 45/33rpm switch.
Perhaps a better isolated motor. And better finish - as the paint on my UD is flaking off.
It lacks an 10" arm tho..
 
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1.Oil-bath bearing
2. 45/33rpm switch
3. Better isolated motor

The funny thing, is that the new Pro Ject Debut Pro has some features id like to have. Like an 45/33rpm switch.
Perhaps a better isolated motor. And better finish - as the paint on my UD is flaking off.
It lacks an 10" arm tho..
2. The speed control or Switch was the reason I was leaning towards the Rega P6 Vs my Ultradeck. I had a switch on my Fluance RT-85 that I came from, but after only 2 miscues I have adjusting the belt incorporated into my vinyl playback routine now, and since I am doing the thumb pre-start of the platter it isn’t a big of deal as I thought it would be.

3. I have had some good quality time with my new UD and seated at my listening position the UD disappears into the listening experience. If the light wasn’t on I can barely notice it is on visually or sonically. I went back to my Fluance for what I thought would be some A/B comparisons but it was so noisy in comparison to the UD that I quit after 2 songs. I guess it is all relative to what other TTs we have owned. The MasterTracker is silent between tracks, no IGD and I have not had a tracking issue with any of my LPs.

After watching some glowing reviews of the Debut Pro, Darko was the best, I purchased one 2 weeks prior to my UD. Here is a post I made elsewhere, 2 would no longer be an issue with the Pro, but 3 would. Your location has access to the better cart:

I picked up the Pro-Ject Debut Pro with the Sumiko Rainer for $1K. Got home and I know the cartridge can need some break in time but the sound was a very big downgrade from the 2M Blue. I think a lot of the great reviews for the Pro are based on the UK/EU model that comes with an Ortofon “pickit Pro”.

The TT itself had good fit and finish, nice solid plinth and plater. The tone arm and all of the controls are a big upgrade from the Fluance RT-85, no cheap plastic feel. It also comes with a decent set of RCA ground cables. While other things like the spindle and the dust cover are downgrades from the Fluance. Also, there is motor noise on startup that decreases in volume once the platter is up to speed but still just audible.

So, I mounted the Ortofon 2M Blue on the Pro and immediately noticed an improvement in comparison to the same cart on the Fluance with everything else being exactly the same. The cymbals had more attack and the vocals had more depth, no noticeable difference in bass. I think this goes to prove my point that the Fluance tone arm is the weak point of the RT-85. I still think the Fluance with 2M Blue is a great buy for $500.
 
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2. The speed control or Switch was the reason I was leaning towards the Rega P6 Vs my Ultradeck. I had a switch on my Fluance RT-85 that I came from, but after only 2 miscues I have adjusting the belt incorporated into my vinyl playback routine now, and since I am doing the thumb pre-start of the platter it isn’t a big of deal as I thought it would be.

3. I have had some good quality time with my new UD and seated at my listening position the UD disappears into the listening experience. If the light wasn’t on I can barely notice it is on visually or sonically. I went back to my Fluance for what I thought would be some A/B comparisons but it was so noisy in comparison to the UD that I quit after 2 songs. I guess it is all relative to what other TTs we have owned. The MasterTracker is silent between tracks, no IGD and I have not had a tracking issue with any of my LPs.

After watching some glowing reviews of the Debut Pro, Darko was the best, I purchased one 2 weeks prior to my UD. Here is a post I made elsewhere, 2 would no longer be an issue with the Pro, but 3 would. Your location has access to the better cart:

I picked up the Pro-Ject Debut Pro with the Sumiko Rainer for $1K. Got home and I know the cartridge can need some break in time but the sound was a very big downgrade from the 2M Blue. I think a lot of the great reviews for the Pro are based on the UK/EU model that comes with an Ortofon “pickit Pro”.

The TT itself had good fit and finish, nice solid plinth and plater. The tone arm and all of the controls are a big upgrade from the Fluance RT-85, no cheap plastic feel. It also comes with a decent set of RCA ground cables. While other things like the spindle and the dust cover are downgrades from the Fluance. Also, there is motor noise on startup that decreases in volume once the platter is up to speed but still just audible.

So, I mounted the Ortofon 2M Blue on the Pro and immediately noticed an improvement in comparison to the same cart on the Fluance with everything else being exactly the same. The cymbals had more attack and the vocals had more depth, no noticeable difference in bass. I think this goes to prove my point that the Fluance tone arm is the weak point of the RT-85. I still think the Fluance with 2M Blue is a great buy for $500.
Thanks for that insightful and informative review! 🙂
 
To those who are still trying to lubricate an inverted bearing with lithium grease, your next choice of a turntable with an oil bath bearing will eliminate this perplexity forever!

And yes, the smug direct drive owners will sit the on the sidelines and smirk!🤓

But more seriously, what are the features you’d want in your next turntable that you’ve learned from prior purchases? For me, it is the oil-bath bearing and a 10” tonearm which tingle the engineer in me. Adjustable VTA is another essential.
I'm very happy with my UltraDeck, but if I ever felt the need to replace it, these are the features I'd be looking for:
  • Adjustable VTA - Although I'm getting really good with my allen wrench skills on the UD, a better mechanism with accurate demarcations would be extremely helpful. As it stands, I avoid adjusting VTA as much as possible.
  • A better anti-skate mechanism - I know the fishing-line dangling weight thingy is popular and moderately accurate, but I'd rather spring for something with a finer adjustment that doesn't rely on notches and knotted wire loop.
  • An accurate, (non-DIY) pivot point indicator on top of my tonearm bearing for overhang adjustments.
I like swapping carts occasionally, so my choices are pretty much anything that makes that job easier. The belt flip for 33/44rpm change doesn't bother me. Also, I clean and lube my bearing once a year, so that's no biggie. I had no post-1980 experience with turntables before purchasing the UD sight unseen, so I consider myself rather blessed for enjoying it so much.
 
I'm very happy with my UltraDeck, but if I ever felt the need to replace it, these are the features I'd be looking for:
  • Adjustable VTA - Although I'm getting really good with my allen wrench skills on the UD, a better mechanism with accurate demarcations would be extremely helpful. As it stands, I avoid adjusting VTA as much as possible.
  • A better anti-skate mechanism - I know the fishing-line dangling weight thingy is popular and moderately accurate, but I'd rather spring for something with a finer adjustment that doesn't rely on notches and knotted wire loop.
  • An accurate, (non-DIY) pivot point indicator on top of my tonearm bearing for overhang adjustments.
I like swapping carts occasionally, so my choices are pretty much anything that makes that job easier. The belt flip for 33/44rpm change doesn't bother me. Also, I clean and lube my bearing once a year, so that's no biggie. I had no post-1980 experience with turntables before purchasing the UD sight unseen, so I consider myself rather blessed for enjoying it so much.
I enjoyed my Ultradeck for nearly 5 years. Your points 1 and 3 were on my list of why I changed.

I’ll add to that:

The ability to easily switch between mono and stereo cartridges.

Consistent performance. No gradual degradation as the belt ages/stretches.

Better speed regulation- although I never detected any issues with the Ultradeck.

Had Technics not re entered the turntable market, I would have kept the MoFi indefinitely.
 
I truly loved my UltraDeck, I had a great experience with it and no issues. Outside of "worldly" reasons for my upheaval, the honest truth is my eyes aren't what they used to be, nor my patience and the removable head shell makes that task much easier. I would add VTA, Anti-Skate and a nice platter to my check list.

Miss the UD, but completely enjoying the 1210GR.
 
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At that price I knew I was late to the party. Think I’m going to try Music Direct and see if I luck out like a few others have.

Meanwhile, I took a break from my studiodeck. Had to fix a TT for a friend and put my old Dual 721 in its place. Have the same OC9/3 on the 721 and was blown away by how much better it sounded. Now HTF could that be??? Well, the Dual has a couple nit picky issues so yesterday I dug in to fix them. So hooked the SD back up. Bleh, low bass would distort, quick passages weren’t clear. Checked my down force, right under 2. I decided to slowly back off the down force and things began opening up and clearing up. I stayed up way too late last night listening, just couldn’t get enough!

I use a solid aluminum weight my father in law made me. Nothing pretty, but it does make a difference. So now some synapse in my brain says try the Mofi weight.
 
At that price I knew I was late to the party. Think I’m going to try Music Direct and see if I luck out like a few others have.

Meanwhile, I took a break from my studiodeck. Had to fix a TT for a friend and put my old Dual 721 in its place. Have the same OC9/3 on the 721 and was blown away by how much better it sounded. Now HTF could that be??? Well, the Dual has a couple nit picky issues so yesterday I dug in to fix them. So hooked the SD back up. Bleh, low bass would distort, quick passages weren’t clear. Checked my down force, right under 2. I decided to slowly back off the down force and things began opening up and clearing up. I stayed up way too late last night listening, just couldn’t get enough!

I use a solid aluminum weight my father in law made me. Nothing pretty, but it does make a difference. So now some synapse in my brain says try the Mofi weight.
So in the end what down force did you end up using . I have a UltraDeck / Mastertracker which comes set on notch 3 and I set the tracking force at 2 g. The cartridge is now broken in and I was going to play around with the tracking force and wonder what other people are using . The manual suggest a range from 1.8 - 2.2g.
 
So in the end what down force did you end up using . I have a UltraDeck / Mastertracker which comes set on notch 3 and I set the tracking force at 2 g. The cartridge is now broken in and I was going to play around with the tracking force and wonder what other people are using . The manual suggest a range from 1.8 - 2.2g.
I'm running mine at just over 2g.
 
I didn't measure it after adjusting, best guess is somewhere in high 1.8/low 1.9.

I'd set it right in the middle like kvetcha, if it sounds good...sit back and enjoy. Or back it off some and test. If it skips, add more.
 
I use a solid aluminum weight my father in law made me. Nothing pretty, but it does make a difference. So now some synapse in my brain says try the Mofi weight.

I now own a nice aluminum paper weight. My Heavyweight arrived yesterday. I'm hesitant to offer opinions after just one night of listening, but...the Heavyweight sounds much better than the aluminum weight, the biggest and most noticeable difference to me is added depth.
 
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