The VPI Turntable Thread

Yeah basically, I'm just joking I think I got it done in less than ten minutes, I'm pretty quick with it at this point.

It's not much, like $75. But I'm already running, 180 gram (which cost $140 damn dollars), started at 160. I just wonder at what point it's going to affect tracking if I go up to 200.
What changes did you notice?
 
Call your buddy Peter and ask him for advice. He’s probably just sitting around doing nothing waiting for the phone to ring. 👍🍺
I actually called and spoke to a really nice gentleman at Soundsmith named Peter and I was about to kinda geek out that it was Ledermann but it was actually Peter Green. Really nice guy.
 
What changes did you notice?
Last night it seemed like it was having a hard time with loud detailed sections, they were getting fuzzy. Could also have just been one of those nights where nothing sounds good so you just shut it down and start over the next day... It was a track I haven't played in a while, could have just been baked in IGD I'd forgotten about. I'm going to leave it for now, see if it continues across other albums.
 
One thing I will say regarding following the proper numbers in terms of effective mass. In terms of actual benefits I've read the main one involves bass resonance being transferred to the arm rather than the cart if you've got the numbers wrong. Or something to that effect. I just played the Mofi 45 Brothers in Arms which I've never really considered a stop tier pressing in terms of sound, and it blew me off the couch. The low bass notes that were showing up were not something I recall hearing the last time I played it. Even earlier this week, so getting the resonance levels more dialed in may have added the fuller bass notes back in. I only really partially understand what it all means but that's my initial takeaway for sure. And seems to follow what I've read in terms of the benefits of getting these numbers right.
 
Arm/cartridge resonance causes mistracking. Severe mistracking can damage record grooves. Best to keep the cartridge compliance and tonearm mass in the recommended range.
Yeah, I'm firmly in range and this afternoon things sounded good. I did some comparisons to the digital streams on the tracks I had issues with last night and it sounds like they're on the recording or is down to the individual pressing.
 
I know this has been approached before but I'm choosing to be lazy instead of doing a deep dive.

For those that transitioned from unipivot to dual pivot with VPI kit (175 USD), how was your experience? Worthwhile? Easy, challenging, negligible?
 
Last night it seemed like it was having a hard time with loud detailed sections, they were getting fuzzy. Could also have just been one of those nights where nothing sounds good so you just shut it down and start over the next day... It was a track I haven't played in a while, could have just been baked in IGD I'd forgotten about. I'm going to leave it for now, see if it continues across other albums.
Just as a further break in update, no further tracking issues at about 25 hours. I'm guessing perhaps it worked in the suspension enough to stop the slight mistracking. Only about 5 hours of listening time away from the suggested 30 hour break in, sounding very very good.
 
I think laziness beat curiosity! I swapped the 2M Blue with the Hana ML today and the problem is greatly reduced. I decided life was too short to troubleshoot a good MM cart when a superior MC cart was waiting in the wings.

Will revisit the issue again when the stylus wears out and I’m ready to move in the Nagaoka MP-500.
Well, I put the Nagaoka on my table and the noise returned. I had the presence of mind to troubleshoot accurately this time and found that the noise was coming from the 120v to 100v transformer through the turntable power cord.

So, I’ll likely need a quieter transformer. I’m currently using a tiny yellow Nissyo TP-811. Anyone have a suggestion?
 
Has anyone here swapped their metal JMW unipivot arm for the 3D printed one? Debating this for my Super Prime Scout?

Or should I save up for the Fatboy, or is that wasted on the Scout?

I was adjusting the leads to hat go from the arm to the RCA junction box and the metal connector at the end broke. It still plugs in but it now has me wondering about it, and that led to me thinking about an arm swap…
 
Has anyone here swapped their metal JMW unipivot arm for the 3D printed one? Debating this for my Super Prime Scout?

Or should I save up for the Fatboy, or is that wasted on the Scout?

I was adjusting the leads to hat go from the arm to the RCA junction box and the metal connector at the end broke. It still plugs in but it now has me wondering about it, and that led to me thinking about an arm swap…
I don't have a unipivot either, but from the feedback I've read on the VPI FB group, a lot of folks don't actually end up prefering the 3D wand. It's definitely a slightly darker and more dampened kind of presentation, and from what I understand, the magic of the unipivot is how alive it is. From a Super Prime Scout, (with the 10.5" arm I'm assuming?) I think you really have to go Fatboy to get a substantial upgrade. I would also double check with VPI what your upgrade options are on the Super Prime Scout to make sure it could accommodate an arm upgrade, too, cause I know that's kind of a very specifically hot rodded table.
 
Sticking with the metal arm. I do need a new cart as I’m pushing the Zu’s hours. Grado’s Timbre line should work well with this arm, right?
 
Has anyone here swapped their metal JMW unipivot arm for the 3D printed one? Debating this for my Super Prime Scout?

Or should I save up for the Fatboy, or is that wasted on the Scout?

I was adjusting the leads to hat go from the arm to the RCA junction box and the metal connector at the end broke. It still plugs in but it now has me wondering about it, and that led to me thinking about an arm swap…
I have the 3D printed Gimbal. I think it's great but I don't have any point of reference for their other arms.
 
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